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I find this very useful when doing experimental editing to see what happens.Īlso Photoshop allows third party plugins and many of those offer far more editing options than what you can get in ACR. The original layer is left untouched and you can undo all editing just by deleting the layer. Just create a new layer and edit on that layer. The big reason is Photoshop is far more powerful and has much better nondestructive editing capabilities. This is one of those ongoing debates and my 2 cents worth is I prefer to do as little editing in the ACR as possible. "Since editing RAW files gives you much more leeway with dynamic range and non destructive editing, I do recommend using is for as much editing as possible in ACR or some other RAW converter." Just save the RAW file (Click "Done") if you haven't done anything in PS yet. Save as PSD or TIFF if you want to keep editing in PS later.PSD's easy to save. You could do this in ACR too if you don't want to make any PS edits. Save as JPEG when you are all done with the image and want to do no further editing. When you're ready for PS you can open the corrected RAW file and click "Open" to open a PSD copy in PS.
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If you want to use PhotoShop on the image, but later, just click "Done". You can also click " Save Image" where you can save as a JPEG or TIFF (or whatever) if you don't want to make further adjustments in PS.The RAW file remains intact. But I can skip them b/c I've already corrected exposure and color problems with adjustments closer to the top of the panel.Ĭlicking " Done" saves the RAW file with the adjustments you've made in ACR.Ĭlicking " Open" will open a copy of the file in PhotoShop (PS) as a PSD so you can make further adjustments. For instance, I usually skip many of the adjustments toward the middle of the first panel. You probably won't need to use all of the adjustments. Use it's controls top to bottom.Ĭontinue moving Top to Bottom, and Left to Right until you're done in ACR. Now move right, to the next panel (click it's tab). Start at the top (with white balance, then go to exposure) and work your way to to bottom. The first pannel of options that's open on the left is the first panel you should work with. The really nice thing about ACR is that it's layed out in an optimal work flow. The most popular is the Spyder but the Colormunki is also very popular. You will need a colorimeter to properly calibrate your monitor. The factory default settings usually are too bright for accurate photo work. If you are not calibrating your monitor, you should do it immediately. I usually save the file as a PSD file for further work in Photoshop. All the other adjustments can be read about in the books on RAW processing. RAW is most useful when things go wrong because you can recover a good image from a bad exposure much better than with jpeg. If you have not really messed up the exposure, you will actually have to make very little or any adjustments. The quick advice is you look at the image in the RAW converter and adjust the 4 basic controls, exposure, contrast, brightness and color balance to correct any errors you see in the image.
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I recommend Adobe Photoshop CS4: Master Camera Raw by Scott Kelby. If you go to any book store or you will find many books on what to do with RAW files.